Nose:Good heavens, what a nose! Incredibly aromatic yet without a trace of vulgarity—quite the opposite—with a hint of old Sauternes, broom flowers, honeysuckle, and dozens of different kinds of honey.
Palate:The magic of time. There’s still firmness, with those slightly resinous notes that come with great age, but also a cascade of dried and cooked fruits, led by sultanas and, as often, peach liqueur and apricot jam. Magnificent notes of small dried figs, with a touch of argan oil adding structure in the background.
Finish:Medium length but firm, always with that sublime balance of pine and sultanas. Perfectly ripe yellow peach and a little coffee bring up the rear with flair.